The Magic of Masai Mara

Public service annoucement: This post was produced solely for the purpose of rubbing it in. I'm in Kenya suckas!

Luxury tent. Personal safari van. Wildebeest migration. Bacon all day er'day. Chillin' with a cheetah. Watching a lion show a carcass who's boss. Standing in Tanzania AND Kenya at the same time. Yeah, I got it like that ;)

I talk way too much. This time, enjoy the photos!

Kwa Heri for now,
Maggie

The Essence

Upon my arrival to Kenya, Mayan and I met a few guys that are natives to Kenya. We realized quickly that Kenyans exhibit a nationalist spirit like no other. One of the boys told us something that we've held onto till now, "The West has the watch, but Africa holds the time". To me, this embodies the ESSENCE of Kenya, a country stricken with corruption on massive scales, crop failure and the monstrosity of HIV/AIDS. Through it all, people tell me time and time again how they love their country and would not want to be anywhere else but where they are, continually on the grind.

By the way T.O., I feel the same about you <3

Last week, Mayan and I got to be a part of something so beautiful. Papa's daughter from Germany, Mary, sets up a free clinic every 3 months (or they hope to) and treats anyone who shows up. The day started early with people arriving as early as 6 AM when clinic was set to open @ 8 and last the whole day. Mary and her team saw men, women and children, totaling to over 300 patients in one day. Mayan and I jumped at the chance to help, but seeing as Mayan was also having a ground breaking Art Show titled "Me En Am" or "I Am Me", He was a very busy bee! I learned how to give people simple eye exams :)

While I was witness to Mary's eye clinic, I couldn't help but feel conflicted. She would see patients that had little or no eye sight left but because they were elderly and perhaps afraid of surgery, they refused free treatment. In this case, Mary proceeded to prescribe placebos. I was confused by this and she simply said "If they don't want to be treated, there has to be some hope". I respect the health professionals who had to make decisions like these that day. Ethics are relative and I believe they really knew their community's needs. Mary also saw cases of children with perfect eye sight that was being drastically damaged by the parasites that lived in the river water these youth depend on to survive.

The truth is, as a worker in this community, as a health or education professional, it is hard to know if you've really DONE anything, because you can ALWAYS ALWAYS do more. Even when Mary and her team treated patients for a 12 hour clinic, there were children still coming up to me the next day to get treatment for their Malaria. My heart breaks when I think of those in need who were discouraged by the wait and perhaps had some other reponsibilities.

On the bright side, Mayan's Art Show was also groundbreaking! the first of its kind! The school had to cut the arts out of the curriculum because of the expense. Even though they are required to provide it. So I don't have to tell you everyone was overjoyed. The pieces they were assigned to make were really reflective of their perceptions of self and their future aspirations.

Note: The computer I'm on is mad SLOW! Hopefully i can get on a computer and upload some pics and tell you about my experience in Masai Mara! *its gonna be good* We're off to Mombasa now for some sun bathing on the coast :) Don't worry Larissa! we've given our students their exams and we'll be back at school for closing day!

talk to you soon!

Kisumu

Like I said y'all, I was in Kisumu last week but I'm a bit behind on the blogging so I'll tell you what happened now :)

**minus the "hotel" situation....okay it wasn't THAT bad but I can't rough it as much as Mayan. I am a firm believer that toilets and showers should be in 2 separate areas. That's just me though.**

We began our journey with Erick, who was an excellent guide. He goes to Maseno University in the area so he was very helpful.

The first night

When we arrived the first day, we hit up the internet cafe and then the Kisumu Museum. It was kinda cheesy and outdated but we got to see some snakes and crocodiles.

Then we were chillin' for a bit at a restaurant and decided to have an ice cold beer (Smirnoff for me). THAT was when the fun started. Imagine the sheer joy a cold alcoholic beverage brings when you're used to tea or florescent drank. After that magical moment, we went on a rampage. We decided to watch a Bollywood movie. Since the cinema is owned by the attached supermarket, we were told we could bring outside beverages and food into the movie with us. Boy, were we wrong! All in all, we got wasted in the theaters and it was a bit illegal. BUT we had fun! And really, its justified because life should be measured by moments of happiness. We also realized we haven't seen night lights in so long since we usually head home by dark at Wikondiek. Glorious.

The second night

The second day was jam packed with fun, fear and exhaustion. We took the matatu over to Maseno university to look around and check out the monkeys that are on campus. After that, we walked to the equator monument. Apparently, it took years to figure out where EXACTLY to place this monument. Who figured it out? no clue. From here, we waited around for a matatu so we could head on over to Kit Makai, which is a bunch of huge rocks piled on top of each other. It sounds lame but it was actually really cool to climb up and there's a story behind it. I don't really have time now to explain. Google it please :) ANYWAYS, the matatus were not showing up so we just stopped a random car and asked them if they were going in that direction. They agreed to bring us for 100 ksh and we hopped in. I won them over with a serious debate about Jackie Chan and we ended up getting a free ride! Then, when we were heading back home, we decided to use the same method of transportation. This time, the guys were super shady. We thought we had agreed on 50 ksh each to Kisumu but they changed the price half way to 70 ksh each and we were not in a position to really argue (considering that one of the men had a bloody hand. we were scared). we *probably* won't do that again.

Once we got home, we met up with the professor that will be evaluating us. He's super cool. We bonded over ice cream *yumm* After that, we headed out to dinner and drinks with our new friends from Amsterdam, Yopp and Natalie. We ended up going to Octopuss/Bottoms Up Bar for drinks (which I was way too full for). It was the kinda place where you see pregnant prostitutes smoking. True story.

The next morning, we walked around a bit and went home. Sounds simple but waiting for the bus to leave was EXCRUCIATING! One thing I do miss about Toronto is the ability to go where I want, When I want. We ended up waiting in a Matatu for 2 hours while under the impression we would be leaving "just now". It actually wouldn't have been that bad if there wasn't people constantly clawing at my shoulder from outside, trying to convince me to by thing. Or street children calling out "Hey Chinese! Give me 5 shillings! Hey Japanese! Mzungu!"

...It was still great fun. I'm doin' it for the story.

I'll post in a bit. We're gonna hit up Masai Mara this Friday (hopefully) to catch the Wildebeast migration. Since it's considered one of the 7 wonders of the world, it's pricey. But since I'm already here, I might as well make it rain ;)

I like to gloat...

Eat your heart out Sis ;) I know I am!

P.S. Tell mom that everytime I pass a rice field, I think of daddy and his days as a rice boy <3>

To change or not to change?

So, I'm gonna get on my self-reflective tip now and try to tackle Larissa's blog assignment. I've just past my half way point in my trip and tomorrow, I begun my adventure exactly 8 weeks ago. There is no doubt that this environment is different. The question is: Has this changed me on a superficially and internally? And if so, what have a chosen to change and what do I choose to preserve? If you've been following my blog, you will know I've been conflicted with how I remain open minded but still hold onto my own values.

The other day, Mayan and I had been feeling discouraged because we've come half way and what have we really done? And should we be doing more? Then we found advice from an old friend of ours:

You will come to a place where the streets are not marked, Some windows are lighted, but mostly they're darked. A place you could sprain both your elbow and chin! Do you dare to stay out? Do you dare to go in? How much can you lose? How much can you win? - Dr. Seuss

Before I left, my sister had given me and Mayan this book the excerpt is from (oh! the places you'll go). Thanks Jen because it has given us strength in moments when we feel like we're on the brink of snapping from bending. The truth is, I'm not putty. I just CAN'T be out and about constantly visiting people and trying to absorb the language and culture. I can only throw myself into it so much before I need a moment of self preservation. I try, but because you can always do more, I never feel like I'm trying hard enough.

Superficially, I have changed my speech pattern in order to be better understood by those around me. I've imitated the physical gestures of those around me in order for them to understand me. For example, when shaking a hand, I now use both hands to express gratitude when there are no words. Also, I've gotten used to cold showers and room temperature beverages (but still get super excited when something is refridgerated).

Something that I refuse to give up is my Canadian accent and my teaching style. I am an outsider regardless. And though I've picked up some of the language, it is impossible for me to be able to speak Luo just like a villager. I mean I don't even have a Cantonese accent and i've been working at it for 20 years! Mayan is alot better at it than I am. I stick out like a sore thumb anyways. I just feel more comfortable speaking the way i was taught to speak... which is still understandable and my students think its hilarious! haha

As for the teaching style, I stand boldly with the choices I make when teaching. The teachers here are used to repetition and corporeal punishments. I have refused to cane my students even though some teachers have asked me to when they don't complete their work on time. I just can't do it. IF I decided to cane my student, they would just go on with their day as usual. But that is a burden I would have to live with for the rest of my life. The compromise I've agreed to is providing the teachers with a list of those who haven't completed their work. I don't want them to be caned but I can't encourage idleness either... what can I do? I also have really fun vocabulary classses that aren't the super boring repetition and writing on a chalkboard *barfs* In this picture, we learnt the word hop and challenge. the perfect set up for a Hopping Challenge Extravaganza with groups frogs, grasshoppers and hares.

Internally, I've changed because I've realized that this experience is more for me than it is for my students. I know, super selfish right? But how ignorant is it to assume that one individual can go to a village and change the lives of those within it? I am one person being submerged into a entirely different culture. Just because I come from a wealthy country, doesn't mean I'm god. I'm taking more away from this experience than my students are and that isn't something to be ashamed of. I'm more relaxed and just enjoying teaching at a leisurely pace instead of trying to force feed them information. Let's have a little fun shall we? :) That's something I've learnt from Mayan. I take myself way too seriously.

I need to start enjoying simply things, like hopping :)

We love nature

..Still that same ol' G :) *riding dirty in the back of a pick up*

Toronto, Idhi nade? (how are you?)


Still chillin' in Kisumu about to go back to the bush today so let me try and catch up with my blogging. I'm gonna start off with telling you about my trip to Homa Hills and Lake Simbi which I visited almost 2 weeks ago! The little excursion included me, Mayan, Mr.Ochuodho (headmaster from Primary), our student Edwin and of course, Madam Rose.

This first pic (or in kenya "snap") is of Simbi Lake. Sorry I didn't take better pictures, I totally left my camera in the car. Those little girls followed us the whole time we were there and even waited to see us off! Its right near Obama's old village! (He later moved to another area because he came back from the war a Muslim and this area is overwhelmingly Seventh Day Adventists). We came to see this lake because we've heard great stories about it. Apparently, a long time ago there was a village where the lake is now. One night when men of this village were getting drunk they were approached by an old woman who begged them for money. Long story short, they booted her out of sight and she drowned the whole village. People are really mystifiued by it. But to us, it was sorta just a lake that smells of sulphur. haha! I think it's a crater lake. It was still good fun though! I guess that's the difference between city slickers and villagers; we MAY be over stimulated. Anyways! let's move on to Homa Hills.

The foot of Homa Hills is home to some natural hot springs. The picture you see is of Edwin and Leslie taking the eggs we boiled out of the hotsprings. There were many little springs like this. So I asked, "Is there a place people can swim near here?". The answer came from the head master, "No. The local people don't think of such things. They don't know they can make money by developing a tourist attraction". WHOOPS. boo to capitalist me :( haha! but the water here is salty and is said to help clear skin so the head master helped me get all the mosquito bite scars on my arms! how thoughtful right? *fingers crossed*

We didn't actually CLIMB the hills but we walked around them! that counts. This picture is of Leslie BFF and I taking in the scenery! One thing that's different about Kenya is the clean air. When we first arrived in our village, we saw the hills from our home and decided to walk and check them out. We walked for almost 2 hours and got nowhere even CLOSE. Because of the lack of smog, objects appear to be close than they actually are. beware. haha!
So we FINALLY just took the 45 min - 1hr drive to the hills. We actually giggled the whole way. Riding in the back of a pick up is SUPER fun by the way because the villagers don't expect mzungus to be chilln' there so when they see us as we're passing they freak a little... I love it :) This last picture is of Mayan the ferocious beast posing just outside a gazebo over looking Lake Victoria, where we were halving lunch. It was originally built by the Norwegians, before the Kenyan natives booted them out and took back their land. Holla!

What's New?

The amazing thing about Kenya is that you can be in such a rural location and still see so many western cultural references. I don't think I have to tell you that they love Obama here. They call him the son of Kenya haha! Afterall, he IS the fruit of their loins. They have alot of Obama merchandise here. I just bought some Obama bubblegum the other day. de-lish!







There's also another light-skinned brother getting some love in Kenya. Yes, Drake has made his way into rural Kenya. I'm beginning to hear him on Boboi's solar powered radio *giggles* and the newspaper even posted his lyrics in their entertainment section. BIG TINGS.



Rejoice TO! I'm being booted off, but I'm in Kisumu for 2-3 more days, so I'll be back with more flava. MAN! you should see our hotel. Laugh. Out. Loud.

XOXO,
Gossip Girl

A Rose in a Thorn Bush

Hey guys :) Sorry I hadn't gotten to internet sooner, I've been super busy! Right now I'm in Kisumu, which is Kenya's third largest city after Nairobi and Mombasa. (It's kinda like Montreal lol)

I'm blogging things that have happened to me from a few weeks back because I don't want to skip too much. So, if you've read on Mayan's blog that we've gone somewhere, don't worry. I've got you covered. My post will just come a little later. I'm currently blogging things from 3 weeks back :( Today, my first post will be about one of my best friends in Kenya, Madam Rose. As you know, with Mayan, Papa, Leslie and the other boys that live across the way, the house is full of testosterone. Madam Rose is my escape house :) She is the first teacher in the primary section pursuing a degree. The other teachers have just finished highschool and attended teacher's college.

I identify with Rose because though she is from a very rural area, she has a broad perspective and I'm able to talk to her about many unconventional, even radical, concepts. She is 32 years old and unwed because she wants to be a learned woman. This is a huge deal in an area when girls are being married as young as 9 years old and I really respect her tenacity. In fact, she counsels the girls of primary to become strong women, and she is a fine example herself. Many girls in primary end up dropping out to work or get married because their families need the bride price. This is a stark contrast from Canada, where I find most of the drop outs to be male. Females here bear the brunt of a household's work.

I really value these conversations with Rose because as a foreigner, the children are reluctant to tell me too much. There is a Luo saying that goes, "One should only show their nakedness to their blood". so, the children dislike showing us their weaknesses or their need. Even when visiting our home, they will borrow their friends' nicer clothing so it does not reveal their true needs. They are resourceful and resilient beyond my imagination.

The photos in this post are of Rose and I cooking some sukumawiki (greens), rice and dhal (beans). This is the food that I eat on a regular basis!

Weapon of mass destruction

Wanna know the deadliest substance in Kenya?

Lemon Cordial aka Drank. Its florescent color and charming happy lemon speaks for itself. I've spent many days unsuccessfully trying to resist its charm. *dilute to taste* lol I'm just going to add random pictures of home life. I gots some time before heading back to the shamba for some lunch.

This is me and Asuke, one of Papa's workers. I came home from school one day to find cute little quails. So i decided to take a picture! Right after this, Asuke asked to also hold the quail and when i handed it to him, he was very helpful and showed me how to break their wings :(
...later he cooked them. I told Mayan I couldn't wait... but i actually didn't have the guts to eat them hahaha! He totally called my bluff on that one.


This is me with some of my students. Yeah, I know, they look older than me. Strangely enough some of the teachers are younger than the students and they still command the same respect. The youngest teacher at Wikondiek is Madame Winfred born in 1990! Its pretty nuts but in a very rural area, as long as you've gotten good grades in secondary school, you may be qualified to teach it. She is just teaching to save up money for her admission to University of Nairobi in September! Kudos to her. Side note : I look gross here but you get the idea. I feel when I have impromptu conversations with the students about Canada and University life, it provides them with way more information compared to when I'm in the classroom teaching.

This is me and the preschool kids. Their parents pay 60 ksh a month for their children to attend. $1 CAD = 66 ksh. The poverty this area experiences does not allow many parents to pay this amount. The teacher here tells me many parents owe them. Also, there are many orphans in this area that may be in child-headed families. In this case, its hard even to be fed. The Asiyo family sponsors alot of children through school :) but there is always a need there. The classroom is a forested area with no chalkboard. It's really tough to teach. These children are really young (maybe 4 years old) and don't know English yet so they mostly just run after me and stare. Some are scared. Actually, last week I made a small child cry beacuse i stopped to say hello. But they mostly get really excited when i'm around... they like to pinch my skin, shake my hand and pull my hair hahaha. I'm different *yay*

Okay i'm being booted off.
till next time TO <3

Creativity is Universal

So I have the time to blog more than once today *hi5*

This next post is about my students and the national music festival in Kenya. Those who know me, know that I LOVE LOVE LOVE poetry and spoken word. Well, Kenya's National Music Festival is a yearly competition between secondary schools where students from all corners of the country come out and showcase original poems, songs and musical compositions and compete for the top. There is also some bomb traditional dancing that goes on. I will upload videos of said dancing when I get home. When I went with my students as they competed for provincials I was blown by the delivers of some of these pieces. Pieces about AIDS, School, Orphans, the temptation of unprotected sex... etc. It really didn't have to be in English; the raw emotion was enough.




























Pic 1: A group of boys playing a self-composed song. peep the drum set and harmonica-keyboard.
Pic 2: Me and a group of girls I teach :) Their piece "Che Africa" (the wife of Africa/African Woman) made it to provincials
Pic 3: Students eager to see each other perform. *tear* Such a beautiful sight
Pic 4: Me and some dancers from another school. The feathers on their shoulders = some crazy shimmying. BELIEVE ME. One guy was on stilts during the whole performance.

Miss you lots!
xoxo

P.s. If you wanna follow Mayan's blog for comparison, check it out at subtlekey.blogspot.com

B is for Barry

Hey guys :)

I'm approaching my 6th week away from home trying to soak up everything around me. I suppose I will not know just how much I've learnt till I've come home. It always feels like I can learn more... but until then, I wanted to share a story with you all about my host mother, Mama Asiyo (or Honourable Dr Pheobe Asiyo). Mom is a UN Goodwill Ambassador for Kenya (and much more) and was telling me the other night about Mr. Barack Obama. As you may or may not know, Barack Obama Sr. was born and raised in the province I am in and just so happens to be baptized by mom's father way back in the day.

So, at dinner mom tells us about her memories of Barack Sr. and how he used to tutor her son, and I asked about Barack Obama Jr. aka the current president. She says, "Oh Barry? Yes, he is a bright young boy"...... UM! how surreal was that? haha she continued to tell us of a time President Obama had visited in the 80s before him and Michelle were married and how they chose to sleep in his grandmother's mud floor for the night instead of returning to the comfy Asiyo home. She told me the next day, they invited Barack and then girlfriend Michelle to the home for dinner where Mr. Obama Jr. turned to Michelle and asked "Now that you've seen where I come from and the poverty of my origins, do you still want to marry this man?" Ofcourse, she replied with a jovial, "it was romantic". SERIOUSLY HEART WARMING. The above picture is of my and mom at a ceremony honouring her achievements and supposedly celebrating some funding for the area she has received from President Obama himself.

Once and Luo, always a Luo. If there is anything I've observed about the people around me, it's that they fiercely value the preservation of their culture and it has worked in their favour for the most part. The ceremony was also to celebrate the Luo culture without partaking in tribalism and disadvantaging women. Mom was also honoured that night by being named the first female Luo elder. Me and my students partied hard.