Umoja: calling for unity

Today we decided to hit up Kibera for a tailor. Kibera is said to be the largest shanty town in Sub-Saharan Africa. This area is almost home to some of the best tailors ever so we took our chances. Plus, our driver Joshua lives there, so we were relatively safe. I was even able to get a few pictures in!

This is me putting my mother's sewing lessons into practice :) *hi mom*

Since the post election violence in Kenya last year, Kibera has been divided by tribes. The area we were in was mainly inhabited by Luos. Joshua tells me they are trying to integrate more and put the past in the past. However, with tensions already beginning to mount for the next elections in 2012, its tricky. On the way back from the tailors, we noticed that a long concrete wall the creates a border for the slum. It was covered in murals and messages by Kibera inhabitants. Here's a little taste:

Story time! to change or not to change? Part 2

Hey Guys :) I know it seems like I've been lacking in posts (sorry Scott) but the last 2 weeks were super hectic! Both primary and secondary schools have closed for August break now and I've left upcountry to join Mayan in Nairobi. He came a few days before me... I stayed back a little bit for closure. Yeah I know what you're thinking, "Since when is Maggie sentimental?" hahaha it happens! I'm happy I took the extra time to ease myself out though. I didn't want to leave with any open wounds. There was no crying or anything, I prepped myself to be cool and composed *as always* :)

Anyways, the purpose of this post begins with a story about my childhood my mom always tells me, and that I'm constantly reminded of when I'm here.

Both of my parents are refugees and because of our very humble background our home needed a double income. Because of this, I was enrolled in daycare right when I was potty trained at age 2. Now, being the first generation born in Canada is hard enough. Since I was introduced to daycare at such an early age, it was hard for me to pick up Cantonese. I don't really have the accents down right so my parents speak to me in their mother tongue and I reply in English. That's our system. It should not be tampered with. haha

When I was about 7 and making my weekly visit to the grandparents', they were criticizing my mom because I spoke in English. My mother, who was also feeling the pressure to embrace both cultures, told my grandmother boldly "my daughter knows how to speak Cantonese". She turned to me and said "You know how to speak your language so do it". After several minutes of coercion from my family members, I was resolved. I decided to stop speaking entirely for 3 days. (which is an eternity for a small child)

The reason why I'm reminded of this story is because I've always insisted on doing things my way, in my own time. One of my biggest challenges here has been sharing my experience with Mayan. He's great, don't get me wrong, but living with him has taught me that sometimes you need to compromise some of your own wants in order to make way for stronger friendships. It seems obvious right?

The truth is, the lifestyle I live at home is a selfish one and I'm not afraid to admit it. Many of my relationships have not endured the ups and downs me and Mayan have had because if I feel like disconnecting and doing my own thing for a week, I can. And I do. But when I'm living with someone who has a general idea of what I'm doing at all times it can make me defensive and at times, hostile.

This is just part of my personal growth here and I am in no way used to living with someone, even though the summer is almost past. Sometimes we hate each other, but it can't stop us from being together because no matter how much I resist (and its mostly me), we need to rely on each other. And its the idea of showing vulnerability that I hate most, not Mayan. The other day I was getting really frustrated and short with him and he kinda told me off haha. It took all my strength to say sorry. Apologizing is such a simple gesture but its been hard for me all summer because I felt like I was the one having their space invaded. But I've learnt to put things in context and realized that it's not his fault for not knowing when I want to be left alone and when I'm ready to make myself available. Vice versa.

When I exit the home, I'm ready for the world and all the socializing. It's been the moments in the home, in my safe space, that I've found it hardest to make adjustments.

I'm working on it though ;)

Fort Jesus

Hi! I miss you! Okay, so you heard what we do with our nights but we also do things in the day too. Albeit half drunk still but we are maximizing on our time here!

Yesterday we headed to Fort Jesus. One of the first slave trade hubs in East Africa. This fort is also significant because it brought over Christianity. I love it when we visit places like this with a local to tell us the history because it just reminds me of how resilient the nation is. Since mombasa is on the coast, the town has a heavy Arabic influence.

It has a high Muslim population and we went on a Friday so it was less congested and I really like the laid back atmosphere. We walked around and did some shopping as well. A nice, easy afternoon :)

I love this picture because of the little boys playing soccer :)

Oh and CAMELS on the beach! fun! *except for all the beach boys hoovering around them waiting for me to become their sugar mama* They can get pretty aggressive. They seriously got things twisted hahaha! I don't know what makes them think I'm about to pay THEM. the nerve.

The last message is some graffiti I saw near Fort Jesus. I like :)

Talk to you soon,

xoxo

Gossip Girl.

My girl likes to partying all the time...

Salaam!

So, travelling with one dude has its perks, but many of the times me and Mayan are looking to make friends. Frankly, we get tired of looking at each other's faces while sitting idly. So, we knew when we were planning for Mombasa we would pull out all the stops to meet new people! (I am, by the way, THE best wing man EVER. PERIOD.)

So, on our first night we took our girl Sheila's recommendation and hit up Bob's, an outdoor bar/club place and met a few archaeology students taking a break from digging up the desert in the North. Kenya, by the way, is often referred to the cradle of life. GOD I love this place! Anyways we ended up partying with them and ended up at their villa! (which was kinda set up like real world. WEIRD.)

The thing that messes me up about Kenya is that the clubs close whenever the last person leaves. So you can imagine how EXHAUSTED I was the next day *damn you Safari and Kenya cane!* I was also burnt out because I'm soft and we hadn't had that kind of excitement in a LONG time. Needless to say we took it to another level... Toronto Style ;)

I was feeling disgusting last night but said, "what the heck, let's do it again". This time we hit up Tembo, also recommneded by Sheila, our girl from Philly :) *She's papa's granddaughter*

Mayan and I pretty much just matatu it everywhere... though its not very safe at night. Whatever. I'm young and invincible. A taxi to Tembo was 300 Ksh. a Matatu is 20 ksh. HUGE difference when you'd rather spend the money on alcohol. Larissa: I promise i'm not a lush. I kinda like the vibe too! The one we were in last night had reggae pumping and black lights haha! I felt like I was in a moving strip club! always a good, settling feeling. You can't see the lights in the picture, but you get the deal :)

Back to my review of Tembo:

If you want to get hustled out of using the washroom by prostitutes, Tembo is the place to be! FULL of working women and beach boys I think as well. but over all, it was fun! *it would have been better if my bladder wasn't about to burst everytime I moved :(

The old guy was totally patting my butt.

Tonight, we're gonna play it safe and stay in since we leave tomorrow. Don't quote me on that though haha :)

Its gonna take a lot to drag me away from you...

I've had Toto's Africa in my head all summer! *partly due to the song dedications I got before I left :P (I secretly enjoy that song)

I'm in Mombasa right now taking a break from soaking in the indian ocean *swoon* this place is beyond beautiful!

We've done alot since we arrive, though we're only spending 4 nights here so let me start by telling a little bit about the crocodile farm we went to. Mamba village is the biggest crocodile farm in East Africa so we saw hundreds and maybe thousands of crocodiles of all sizes! It's kinda weird though... because on one hand the guide was giving us a tour and telling us about the nature of these animals and on the other, he was showing us where the skinning for export takes place and asked whether or not we wanted to eat some crocs. We said yes. Don't hate. haha! it really did tastes like fish flavored chicken. There was a botannical garden and other animals there too! The picture above is of an albino crocodile amongst other baby crocodiles :)

Here are some pictures:

Me holding a baby croc

me holding a small python

Croc feeding time

Brown bear feeding time

The Magic of Masai Mara

Public service annoucement: This post was produced solely for the purpose of rubbing it in. I'm in Kenya suckas!

Luxury tent. Personal safari van. Wildebeest migration. Bacon all day er'day. Chillin' with a cheetah. Watching a lion show a carcass who's boss. Standing in Tanzania AND Kenya at the same time. Yeah, I got it like that ;)

I talk way too much. This time, enjoy the photos!

Kwa Heri for now,
Maggie

The Essence

Upon my arrival to Kenya, Mayan and I met a few guys that are natives to Kenya. We realized quickly that Kenyans exhibit a nationalist spirit like no other. One of the boys told us something that we've held onto till now, "The West has the watch, but Africa holds the time". To me, this embodies the ESSENCE of Kenya, a country stricken with corruption on massive scales, crop failure and the monstrosity of HIV/AIDS. Through it all, people tell me time and time again how they love their country and would not want to be anywhere else but where they are, continually on the grind.

By the way T.O., I feel the same about you <3

Last week, Mayan and I got to be a part of something so beautiful. Papa's daughter from Germany, Mary, sets up a free clinic every 3 months (or they hope to) and treats anyone who shows up. The day started early with people arriving as early as 6 AM when clinic was set to open @ 8 and last the whole day. Mary and her team saw men, women and children, totaling to over 300 patients in one day. Mayan and I jumped at the chance to help, but seeing as Mayan was also having a ground breaking Art Show titled "Me En Am" or "I Am Me", He was a very busy bee! I learned how to give people simple eye exams :)

While I was witness to Mary's eye clinic, I couldn't help but feel conflicted. She would see patients that had little or no eye sight left but because they were elderly and perhaps afraid of surgery, they refused free treatment. In this case, Mary proceeded to prescribe placebos. I was confused by this and she simply said "If they don't want to be treated, there has to be some hope". I respect the health professionals who had to make decisions like these that day. Ethics are relative and I believe they really knew their community's needs. Mary also saw cases of children with perfect eye sight that was being drastically damaged by the parasites that lived in the river water these youth depend on to survive.

The truth is, as a worker in this community, as a health or education professional, it is hard to know if you've really DONE anything, because you can ALWAYS ALWAYS do more. Even when Mary and her team treated patients for a 12 hour clinic, there were children still coming up to me the next day to get treatment for their Malaria. My heart breaks when I think of those in need who were discouraged by the wait and perhaps had some other reponsibilities.

On the bright side, Mayan's Art Show was also groundbreaking! the first of its kind! The school had to cut the arts out of the curriculum because of the expense. Even though they are required to provide it. So I don't have to tell you everyone was overjoyed. The pieces they were assigned to make were really reflective of their perceptions of self and their future aspirations.

Note: The computer I'm on is mad SLOW! Hopefully i can get on a computer and upload some pics and tell you about my experience in Masai Mara! *its gonna be good* We're off to Mombasa now for some sun bathing on the coast :) Don't worry Larissa! we've given our students their exams and we'll be back at school for closing day!

talk to you soon!